In the 20s and 30s, America was going through extremely difficult times. However, despite this, this period went down in history as a period of flourishing fashion and a certain style. It was in the 30s that the so-called gangster style was born. Even the word “gangster” itself sounds stylish. Although in the old days this was the name of men associated with the mafia and the underworld, this word really had its own specific image. Harsh men in expensive suits with a cigar in their hand are the first associations that arise when you hear the word “gangster”. But it’s not just a style, it’s a whole era in the fashion world that still leaves no one indifferent. Read more at chicagoka.
The history of the style and its origin. Who are gangsters?
The gangster era began in 1919. It was then that the 18th Amendment to the Constitution was accepted. It stated that the production, distribution, and sale of alcohol was prohibited throughout the country. But interestingly, alcohol consumption was allowed. Therefore, the most resourceful were able to take their place in the sun. The underground alcohol business was developing very quickly, the black market was growing every day. Despite the incredibly high cost of alcohol products, the owners of underground clubs and bars were willing to pay any money to stay in business and not lose. The most famous name of that era was Alphonse Gabriel Capone. This famous Chicago gangster dreamed of covering not only the black market of alcohol products. His plans included casinos and gambling, and he also realized that prostitution was another source of good money. The rules of the underworld were quite strict and included not only a certain code of honor and business rules, but also a certain dress code. In such circles as the mafia, people were really greeted by their clothes. In addition, if a mafia representative has a certain amount of capital, then of course he or she should look great. It was unacceptable to come to solve issues in dirty shoes or a wrinkled shirt. Among gangsters, there was an unspoken rule to always look sharp.
The Chicago mafia consisted of a real beau monde. They were almost on the same level as millionaires and billionaires who had earned their fortunes by honest means. Gangsters from Chicago could be considered trendsetters in high fashion in the city and then around the world.
Gangster style for men
The style of Chicago gangsters is always expensive, pretentious and for a lot of money, but always exquisite. It was back when the mafia clans in Chicago were flourishing.
For men, this style always implies formality, but this image always has its own zest. Therefore, men mostly chose white or light shirts and a three-piece suit. The use of different patterns was not allowed, the only exception being a thin shiny vertical stripe. There was an interesting rule among men: the suit had to be combined with shoes, hairstyle and tie. Of course, the tie had to be dark or black, depending on the overall look. There could also be an exception in the form of splashes of shiny fiber. Another important accessory of the gangster image is cufflinks. The material from which they were made had to correspond to the social status and wealth of their owner. The higher the status in the clan, the more expensive the cufflinks were. It was quite common for a clan leader to give cufflinks to one of his close associates as a sign of favor and good treatment. Such a gift was received with great respect. Another important element was the watch. By the way, it was also possible to determine the status of a man by it. The bigger and more massive the watch, the higher your status among others.
The final element of the image is, of course, shoes. The shoes of every respectable gangster had to be polished to a shine. That’s why many famous mafiosi chose exclusively lacquered shoes for their look. The shoe model had a rounded toe, which made it look more solid.
Usually there was also a hat, but it was optional. Some people just chose a neat hairstyle, others still chose a hat.
There was also a so-called gentleman’s label. It was a simple handkerchief or boutonniere that was put in the front pocket. Men used it to emphasize their image; it had almost no practical meaning. Only in cases when a woman is crying nearby, so a man can offer this handkerchief to his partner. Interestingly, the idea of wearing handkerchiefs or boutonnieres in this way was initiated by Chicago gangsters. They often chose colored handkerchiefs for their outfits to add a little bright accents and perhaps playfulness.
Gangster style for women
The ladies of the Chicago mafia had to match their gentlemen in appearance. Since the 1920s, fashion for women has changed a lot, replacing modest and restrained images with a bright and energetic wave. Women looked sophisticated, seductive and bright, and in some cases even disregarded the rules of behavior. Clothing also became more revealing, with bare backs, short sleeves, etc. Of course, high-heeled or stiletto shoes depended on the girl’s preferences. As accessories, ladies used small hats with feathers, fur capes, and long pearl beads or laconic diamond jewelry. I think it goes without saying that mafia members never saved money on their appearance or on their women. That’s why gangsters’ girlfriends always had to look the part.
So it is not surprising that most women looked like Hollywood stars and had precious jewelry, furs of all kinds, and many dresses for any meeting or event.
During this era, there were also women who were against dresses. They chose men’s suits, but supplemented them with certain elements, such as high-heeled shoes or the absence of a shirt under the jacket, which made the image more sexual.
Of course, the image could not be complete if the lady did not have the right makeup and hairstyle. The makeup stood out for its brightness. According to the rules, the girls had to wear eyeliner and dark eyelid makeup, and black wide arrows could be used as an alternative. The lips of the famous mafia girlfriends were emphasized with bright lipstick. Of course, the most popular shades were always red. Quite often these colors were blood-red, burgundy, or the color of aged wine. Women also had to emphasize their cheekbones, as this was done with exclusively warm shades.
Hairstyles also deserve special attention. The most popular was laconic waves. Another popular option is when the hair is combed smoothly to the side, and the ends are decorated in the form of curls or voluminous piles. It is also known that in the era of this style, short hairstyles were quite popular. The fair sex chose bob hairstyles.
Style in movies
Of course, this era was also perfectly reflected in films about gangsters. Directors and costume designers tried to reflect the style of Chicago as best they could. In some movies, customers even met with real representatives of the gangster elite to better understand the style, as, for example, during the preparation for the filming of the movie Casino. It was released in 1995 and starred the famous actor Robert De Niro. In this movie, he played a famous casino owner, but few people know that the character had a real prototype, Frank Rosenthal. At one time, he was a very famous fashionista.
Therefore, to prepare the outfits, the costume designer tracked down Frank to recreate the images and style he had followed throughout his career. Thus, Robert De Niro changed as many as 70 sets of clothes on the screen, costing more than $1 million.
Even in the movies, the gangster style looks expensive, sophisticated and stylish.